Gene Hikes the Appalachian Trail

Tag: adventure

  • 183 Trail

    To start 183 Trail you just start walking south from somewhere near the intersection of US 183 and US 290 along the 183 service road.

    Service roads are a concept I had never heard of before moving to Austin, but I think they’re neat. Any major thoroughfare in Texas has a surface street running parallel to it where businesses live and which you can use to go wherever the highway goes without having to actually get on the highway and deal with highway driving. Obviously, you want to use the highway to go more than 5 miles, but for short trips I always choose to stay on the service road.

    This time I threw on the 25 lb. pack and headed out to 183 Trail. This trail was appealing because it measures 10 miles running north-south alongside 183 and 183 Toll Road between northern Austin and the airport. While the other trails I’ve done so far (walnut creek, shoal creek, etc) have all been maintained by Austin Parks Foundation, 183 Trail falls under the purview of the Central Texas Regional Mobility Authority (CMRTA). This means there are some good and (mostly) bad differences between this trail and all of the other ones I’ve talked about previously.

    A quick aside here. For reasons I do not entirely understand, 183 service road has four different names throughout Austin proper. It is referred to as Research Boulevard, Anderson Lane, Ed Bluestein Boulevard, and Old Bastrop Highway depending on exactly where you are standing when you are speaking. So as not to confuse anyone reading this, I’ll refer to it only as 183 service road. But just know that here in Austin no one ever does this.

    There was no “mile zero” signpost at the beginning of the trail, but there was this informational billboard on the roadside about a mile south of 290. The trail itself referred to these as kiosks, and this was the first one.

    click to enlarge

    I cannot emphasize this enough. If I had not seen this kiosk, I would have had no idea I was on an actual trail. This was just sidewalk on a busy service road. Cars were whizzing by and the noises of a morning commute filled the air. Most of the time there was no protected bike lane, just a little portion of the service road shoulder carved out.

    It continued pretty much exactly like this until I got to Loyola Lane and saw a sign for Davis-White Park. Since the trail was proving to be underwhelming, I figured I would undertake a side quest.

    Davis-White Park was named for Willie Ray Davis and Louie White, the first black captains of the AFD and APD. It is almost 20 acres and contains a 1/2 mile walking loop, large open spaces, playgrounds, and there was a food truck there at like 7:45am. Looking back, I probably should have taken some pictures of all that, because it was a pretty cool place. Oh well. I did get some pictures of the outdoor fitness station there. Because of course I did.

    Second from the left in the second picture is a body weight rowing machine. I unabashedly love this thing and might ask it to prom. A really good, solid piece of equipment that gave me a great strength and cardio workout in only 2 or 3 minutes of use. I’ve only seen one other example of this in my life, so it was a real privilege to find one here.

    Getting back on the trail, the next big landmark was the trailhead at 51st Street. To call it a trailhead was being charitable. It mainly consisted of parking spots, which was nothing to sneeze at but also nothing overly impressive. There was a small fitness area though, so it’s got that going for it, which is nice.

    the dip / pull-up station on the left looks like modern art
    2026. Plastic and metal on concrete.

    Directly across the street from the trailhead was the YMCA on 51st Street. Frustratingly, there was a kiosk in front of the YMCA. This meant that in order to see all of the kiosks you needed to bounce back and forth across the street multiple times. And, just to drive this point home, remember that this trail goes along next to a one-way service road that is next to a pretty big roadway with the service road in the opposite direction next to that. You needed to cross all of that to get from one side to the other.

    view from a pedestrian bridge over 183

    About a half mile from that kiosk, on the opposite side of the street once again, was a cool four-panel exhibit about civil rights in Austin. The four panels were arranged in a semicircle on the northwest corner of the MLK / 183 intersection. Here is one of those panels.

    click to enlarge

    At this point you may have noticed that I showed you two kiosks and they both deal with minority pride and history. It probably won’t surprise you to learn that East Austin is home to a large population of minorities. However, it may surprise you to find out why that’s the way it is.

    Let’s take another small side quest to learn all about the Austin Master Plan of 1928. Before Austin was the weird place where everyone lived in skyscrapers and did stand up paddleboarding, it was just a small but growing Texas city. Blacks in Austin lived in several enclaves all across the city called freedsmen towns. White Austin did not like the idea of so many black residents spread across the area. The 1928 city plan was an excuse to make sure freedsmen towns all over Austin got no support from the city, in an effect to drive all black Austinites into east Austin, where the largest concentration already was. To quote directly from the plan itself:

    There has been considerable talk in Austin, as well as other cities, in regard to the race segregation problem. This problem cannot be solved legally under any zoning law known to us at present. Practically all attempts of such have been proven unconstitutional.


    In our studies in Austin we have found that the Negroes are present in small numbers, in practically all sections of the city, excepting the area just east of East Avenue and south of the City Cemetery. This area seems to be all Negro population. It is our recommendation that the nearest approach to the solution of the race segregation problem will be the recommendation of this district as a Negro district.

    Cough, redlining, cough. The systematic coerced migration of black Austin to the eastern edge of the city was only exacerbated when Interstate 35 replaced East Avenue and bisected the city like a scar. This just made it easier for white Austin to improve and grow while denying those same resources to minority Austin. Just remember that whenever “they” say the things that happen now don’t have powerful, lasting ramifications – they do in fact have powerful, lasting ramifications that outlive most people’s memories of the things that occurred in the first place.

    South of MLK after a few miles I came to Boggy Creek. There was a stairway down from 183 to get closer to the creek and see some greenery. Here is a picture showing the creek water level.

    It was here at Boggy Creek where I saw a group of maybe five or six birds circling overhead. They were about half a mile away and pretty far up in the sky, so I was not able to identify them or get any photos. But it did make me realize that until that point I had not seen any other birds along the trail. Being so close to such a busy roadway, the birds simply were not anywhere to be found.

    Next up was the biggest landmark on 183 Trail, the Montopolis Truss Bridge. Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, the bridge was built in 1937-38 to replace the original bridge after it was destroyed by floods. Here is a gallery of the bridge itself, the Colorado River it crosses, and a plaque from the opening. And my blurry index finger.

    183 Trail continued south past the bridge all the way down to Austin-Bergstrom. As you can guess, there was a fair amount of traffic on that portion on 183. And that pretty much wrapped up the adventure for the day.

    I have a few thoughts about this trail in general. It really felt like they built US 183, and then someone decided or heard about some kind of program that gave out federal grants for trails. So they tried to reach out and grab that money by sticking some signs on the side of the road and claiming this was a trail. 183 trail is not a trail, it’s just a sidewalk on the side of a road. And, you know, I have no problem with it being the latter. My only problem is when you claim to be the former.

    It was a difficult trail because at every road crossing the trail sloped up to the elevated intersection, which was great because the walk was challenging. No trees meant the sun beat down constantly. I began right around sunrise, but by the last few miles the heat was nearly unbearable. I was stopping to drink water more frequently than normal. All in all; good workout, mediocre experience, but I did learn some things.

  • Butler Bike Trail

    When a person from outside the Austin area thinks of Austin, they likely think about all of the sights you can find along the Butler Bike Trail. The kinds of spectacular shots of identifiable downtown landmarks you’d see in a show of the CSI/9-1-1/FBI -insert-your-city-name-here ilk, if there was such a show based in Austin. Wait a minute, there was a show called 9-1-1: Lone Star that was based in Austin. Their opening credits must have shown exactly the kinds of sights I’m thinking about. Let’s see that open.

    Okay. Never mind. That was pretty limp. If 9-1-1: Lone Star actually had an opening, it would show you the sort of things you think of when you think of Austin. And all those things can be seen along the Butler Bike Trail. Just trust me on this. So I threw on the backpack and went lakeside to check it out.

    Butler Bike Trail (officially the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail and Boardwalk At Lady Bird Lake — which rolls off the tongue) is a ten-mile loop along Lady Bird Lake between MoPac and Pleasant Valley Road. I went downtown and picked up the trail at mile zero near Auditorium Shores and hiked in the preferred clockwise direction because my OCD wouldn’t let me complete the loop in any other way.

    Almost exactly at the beginning I encountered my first outdoor fitness area. A decent enough spot with some pull-up bars, push-up bars, and abdominal exercise stations. It also had good sized trees nearby to provide some shade in midday.

    The keen-eyed among you will notice the Bird scooter on the left side of the picture above. I had to include that in the shot since I am now an amateur birdwatcher.

    Before I got too far into the trail, I had to take some shots of downtown. Since Austin is a city on the grow, most of what you see in the skyline is exceedingly new. In the picture on the left you can see Sail Tower on the far left; it looks like a sail. Moving right, you have Northshore, which is a high-end apartment building that looks like stair steps. On the right in the first picture and the left in the second picture is the W Hotel Austin. I’ve been on the roof there before. The views were nice and all but beer tasted the same as it does on ground level, and it’s much cheaper on the ground.

    Just under one mile into the trail I saw a sign for some exercise equipment just off the path. Of course I had to investigate.

    Not 100 yards off the trail I found another fitness area. Two in less than one mile!

    And was that a Swedish ladder I saw along with some rings, a dip station, rope ladder, and suspension trainers? Be still my heart! It had only been one mile, but so far this was the single greatest trail in the entire United States of America. The only thing that could have made this better would’ve been a stand with free beef jerky.

    Sadly, there was no beef jerky. I soon made my way to Lou Neff Point. The location is named for Barbara Louise Neff, who was a civic leader and held many positions with multiple entities such as being President of Austin High School PTA and Heritage Society. Lou Neff Point is a scenic vista where I got another good shot of downtown, although Mister Sun did his best to spoil the shot.

    The next couple of miles were uneventful. Just hiking along the shore, watching people, crossing over and under bridges. Spider webs covering almost everything. Notice how once I crossed over the MoPac bridge the maps on the mile markers flipped over. Not sure why that was necessary.

    Near the Central Library, I got a great look at two particularly photogenic Egyptian geese. I have to include a shot of them here since I am an expert birdwatcher.

    Egyptian geese are an invasive species that are not native to Texas. They are easily identified by the big brown spots around their eyes and colorful back feathers. They are also known to be aggressive when defending their area, to the point of trying to fight off drones. The two I saw were pretty chill and basically ignored me. They may have still been salty about their team blowing that lead against Argentina.

    Here is another shot of downtown that shows off a few different buildings. That super tall tower on the left is Waterline, Austin’s tallest building and her first to break 1000 feet. The buildings on the right are all part of the Rainey Street district. These include the tallest one on the right, which is 44 East.

    Between mile 5 and 6 I crossed under I-35 for the first time. While there I took some time to admire the never ending construction while resting on some park benches.

    Major construction of roadways always reminds me of the Big Dig. If that name sounds sort of familiar to you, but you aren’t sure why, that was the colloquial name given to the public works project that buried I-93 underneath Boston. This was in the nineties and early 2000s. It was contentious because it was largely paid for with federal government money. Meaning some guy in Iowa was getting hit with the tax hammer so some people in some place he had never been could get their city beautified. As someone who hates spending tax money and beauty, I always thought it was unfair for the Big Dig to be funded in such a way. Especially since delays and design flaws ballooned both the cost and the timeline.

    However, as someone who lived in Boston during and after the Big Dig, I have to say it was the most significant and positive change that occurred in The Hub the whole time I was there. It literally took a town that was cut in half by the elevated highway and stitched it back together into a walkable, pedestrian friendly city. It salvaged a mishmash of ancient streets that could not handle modern traffic and at least gave commuters a fighting chance to get home from work before bedtime. It also gave us the Zakim Bridge, which is exactly the kind of landmark you see on TV when they need to tell you their show is set in Boston.

    These old legs needed another break after mile 6, so I wandered just slightly off the trail at Longhorn Dam / Pleasant Valley Road and entered Krieg Athletic Complex. I ate a turkey and provolone sandwich and Great Value key lime yogurt that I had packed myself and then checked out the park. There were probably over a dozen softball fields as well as turf fields and volleyball fields. Lots of space for recreation and whatnot.

    The mile marker maps flipped back over again at mile 7, which meant I was getting close to the end of the sojourn. Here is one more shot of downtown from around that point on the trail. For those of you who want to know more about the diverse buildings of downtown, here is a good little story and quiz from our local NBC affiliate. For everyone else, I promise I will not mention the skyline again in this post.

    I was pleasantly surprised when I saw a third outdoor fitness station. This one was much like the first one, some pull-up bars and inclined ab locations.

    At this point I need to mention one extremely positive thing. Every single fitness station had a working water fountain. More than that, there were working water fountains all over the trail. And lots of working toilets spaced adequately so that it never seemed like you went more than a mile and change without coming across one. And the trail itself was as well kept as you could expect with thousands of yahoos like myself using it every day. Hats off to The Trail Conservancy and their Park Rangers and custodians and everyone involved with making sure that everything was in pristine condition. The effort was much appreciated.

    The homestretch of the trail included the Boardwalk. This reminded me of the Esplanade in Boston. The Esplanade was always a good place to go for a run or catch an event at the Hatch Shell or play ultimate along the Charles. I haven’t lived in Boston for thirteen years, so it was strange to think about it twice in one morning. At least both memories were positive.

    Sadly, my time on the Boardwalk was not all positive. The major drawback was that there was zero overhead cover from mean old Mister Sun. And it was a hot day. Everywhere else on the trail had access to a fair amount of tree cover and shade, but the Boardwalk had none of that. I’m not sure who made that decision, but it was an interesting choice. It definitely made me speed walk the end of my hike to get it over and go somewhere cool.

    I have one final picture that didn’t really fit in anywhere else in my story, but it needs to go somewhere. Here is a shot of four turtles on a log in the lake. Why are they there? What are they doing? Don’t know, don’t care. Enjoy.

  • Solidarity

    I had been excited for the merry, merry month of May. I planned to use this month to start making some purchases that I’ll need for my thru-hike next year. I already have a lot of the things I’ll need, but I definitely have a wish list as well.

    1. One large backpack (somewhere around 55-65 L)
    2. One sleeping bag
    3. One or two pairs of those cool hiking pants with the legs you can unzip and then they become shorts (seems like they are called “convertible hiking pants”)
    4. One entrenching tool or similar multi-purpose shovel / axe thing
    5. One tablet computer, to make blogging on the trail easy

    I actually pretended to be an adult and budgeted $400 this month to purchase a few of those items. Why did I choose this month specifically? Well, because this month is the big, exciting REI Anniversary Sale! The one time all year when the greatest outdoor store in the world has their best prices for their loving customers and members. Imagine my shock and disappointment when I found out that there was a planned boycott during the sale.

    Lots of crazy people yell at the rain and call for boycotts for all sorts of dumb reasons. Those boycotts usually go unnoticed by right-minded individuals. This boycott, however, comes from the members and workers of REI itself. Therefore it seems worthwhile to hear about why they are doing it.

    REI (Recreational Equipment, Inc) began in 1938 in Seattle as a co-operative founded to allow outdoorsmen and women a way to get quality camping and hiking gear at affordable prices. From that humble beginning REI became one of the leading outdoor retailers in the country. It was able to parlay the public’s love for the outdoor industry into millions of dollars in profits every year while still maintaining its core principles as a co-op. Great benefits for workers and members, money to spend promoting the outdoors and protecting the environment, and some left over to line the executives’ pockets.

    COVID-19 brought changes for REI the company and the public image of REI. The first cracks in the corporate image facade appeared as lax enforcement of CDC guidelines and COVID-19 safety protocols. Things like not being transparent with workers about who had the illness and having workers work too closely with one another.

    Still though, the bottom line continued to perform to expectations. After a down year in 2020 (like nearly everyone else), REI made $3.7 billion in revenue with a net income of $97.7 million in 2021. By 2022 revenue increased to a record $3.9 billion. However, income was a net negative of $164.7 million. Equally important in 2022, the REI store in SoHo, Manhattan (New York City, not Kansas) voted to become the first union store. The execs in the suits were less than pleased with the associates in the green vests.

    As more stores unionized the company became colder and colder to their workers. Among other things, REI quietly settled a charge of attempted union busting in at least one location.

    By 2025 the company went full mask off and left their co-op ideals behind. REI initially supported Doug Burgum for U.S. Secretary of the Interior. Having this billionaire, business-first, ex-management consultant in charge of the nation’s public lands and wildlife is literally letting the fox into the hen house. REI also tried to pass a slate of corporate yes-men to their board of directors. However, that was voted down by REI’s members. No problem though. REI changed its own rules and packed the board with a bunch of yes-men anyways.

    Now in 2026 the eleven total unionized stores are finding it harder and harder to work with REI. Ever since May 2025 they have been attempting to collectively bargain a contract. The most recent offer from REI was overwhelmingly rejected by the union in February 2026. REI then declared an impasse and wants to unilaterally institute wage and benefit cuts across all stores on the 1st of July. Feeling that they were left with no choice, the union along with REI members called for a boycott of this year’s Anniversary Sale. This is a boycott, not a strike, since a strike would only affect the 11 unionized stores but a boycott can be felt across all stores during the biggest time of the year.

    I linked to information about the boycott above, but I’m linking it again here as well. Please also read the many articles I’ve linked above, because I’m not a journalist and I feel like you should read some of them yourself instead of just skimming my overly brief summations.

    So bringing this back around to me, it really sucks that this is happening. It sucks for the workers at REI. It sucks for me because I’ll support their union and their cause but I’ll need to find somewhere else to shop for my wish list. But I’m happy to do it if it helps support their union cause.

  • North Walnut Creek Trail

    So I threw the old backpack on again and headed out to North Walnut Creek Trail, which you should have been able to figure out from the title. This is the northern portion of the Walnut Creek Trail System, a not-yet-completed trail which will extend 19 miles across northern and eastern Austin when finished. I picked up the trail on Lamar Boulevard just north of Oakbrook and four miles from Balcones District Park. This made for a nice eight mile round trip, and since it took me a few miles to get to my origin this wound up being 11 or 12 total miles of hike.

    This entire trail was paved and very wide, easily accommodating walkers, bikers, strollers, and even a maintenance pickup truck. I probably should have taken a picture of the truck, but I didn’t so you’ll just have to trust me.

    Not long after I started I came upon Walnut Creek Metro Park, the first of three trailheads on my route. With ample parking, a gated pool, and a kids’ play area the location seemed like a good place to chillax for a while but I quickly sped through.

    Along this trail there were lots of unpaved side trails that promised adventure. Trails with exciting names like Log Loops Trail and Ski Slope Trail. However I was unusually focused on completing the main hike and not on doing any side quests. I did see lots of mountain bikers going back and forth between the trails so they are obviously very popular.

    The next significant marker I came across was Gracywoods Neighborhood Park Trail. I did do a small detour thinking there would be a nice neighborhood park nearby. Nope, I was dead wrong. The only thing I saw on the trail was the backs of some apartment buildings. I did come across a meadow with some cool flowers. I know I must be spending more time outside than usual when I use “cool flowers” in a sentence without a hint of irony or sarcasm.

    These flowers are known as gaillardia, and they bloom pretty ubiquitously in central Texas. Actually, all across Texas. They are bright and low maintenance and can handle hot weather. It rained way more than usual in April so these and other flowers have been shooting up all over the place. The cloudy weather lingered during my hike, which explains the grey skies in all my pictures.

    Once I got back on the main trail I was treated to the best mile or so of the day. The walkway went through a wooded area that was shielded from any urban noises and became like a secluded country trail. I passed by some young ladies hanging out in a gazebo and smoking reefer. Or is it “the reefer”? This was a great stroll and it saddened me immensely when I came upon Gracywoods Trailhead, the second of three trailheads, at Metric Avenue.

    Metric Avenue, but they still measure speed in mph

    Gracywoods Trailhead had its own play area. I gave everything a try but I honestly have to give it low marks. The swings were too low and the slides were too narrow. I don’t think anyone over the age of ten would enjoy playing there. Zero of ten stars. The benches did work though, which is always a plus.

    The next big landmark on the way to the end was crossing underneath MoPac. I took a picture because there was one of those hideous Cybertrucks at the intersection. MoPac is one of the main roads north-south in Austin. It has express lanes that can be accessed if you pay a toll. And by “express” I just mean everyone in those lanes likes to “express” themselves by flipping you the bird or honking repeatedly like a siren.

    When I first moved to Austin the second question I asked my friends was why is it called MoPac. The answer is because the road follows roughly the same path as the old Missouri Pacific Railway. By the way, the first question I asked was why is everything freaking thing named after Mirabeau Buonaparte Lamar? The answer: because he was a bad ass soldier, politician, and poet. He was also a bigoted racist who did more to harm the Native American cause than almost any other Texan, which also must be mentioned.

    From MoPac on to the third and final trailhead was not much to write home about. It wasn’t bad, just nothing worthy of addition to a blog. The trail got noticeably steep for the last half mile or so. Then I finally reached the third trailhead at Balcones District park.

    Balcones District Park is a spacious open area with clean, working toilets and multiple covered benches where you can sit or host a birthday party. And they also had a play area that I would not recommend to anyone old enough to have hair on their chest. They also had basketball courts and working water fountains. This park is a place where you can go and spend a good half a day easily. Cue a small gallery.

    I hung out there for about a half hour before turning around to head back. Not much happened on the return trip until I got back to almost the beginning. This time I decided to take one of those beaten trails near Walnut Creek Metro Park. I chose one called Powerline Hill.

    I hoped it would be a pleasant, brief, uphill climb that would reward me with a panoramic view of part of the city. I was right about the short climb part. The view wound up just being a bunch of power lines. Oh, and a person on a mountain bike who zoomed past me on the ascent.

    Not shown: a fourth power line just off to the right

    And then I went back down and finished up. And there was much rejoicing.